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Re: gEDA-user: buzzing board



can you capture a current trace, knowing that information will provide us an ability to actually calculate the required capacitance.

Where i work we do not use tantalum caps because there down sides are pretty big in terms of safety.
when you over work a tant, they get very hot.


It should. The other thing to check is ripple: if you're getting
enough to make a ceramic sing, the ripple current might be a problem
for Ta. Check the ripple voltage and frequency across the cap and
use the resistance and capacitance ratings to deduce a current.


Yeah, the ripple voltage is pretty high, about 0.5vpp at 4.7uF and
14mA average draw.

Hence my other thought, which was a big electrolytic and a medium
sized cermic/tant.


If you have that much ripple, you need more capacitance.

more of a reason to have a current trace.

a high resolution voltage trace would also give the volts per second to deduce the current, knowing the ESR.

Steve



On Sep 19, 2007, at 10:30 AM, DJ Delorie wrote:


The PCB for my alarm clock buzzes.

Having poked and prodded, and getting a piezo unit that did nothing, I
finally figured it out (the trick was to use a nail, not a toothpick,
to poke and prod - I was using that as a better sound conductor for
the piezo).

There are not one but TWO buzzing caps.  If I replace both of them
with electrolytics, the buzzing goes away.  If I replace them both
with two new ones of the same type/size, it still buzzes.

The caps are 4.7uF 16v.  They're decoupling/bypass for a +12v rail
(well, one is, the other is VcomH, which seems to be 7v).  They're the
biggest 0805's with that voltage rating.

I can fit a 1206 in that spot.  If I replace those with 10uF 25v, do
you think they'll not buzz?

Another alternative is 22uF 16v.  I don't know if the buzz is due to
insufficient capacitance, or damage due to being too close to the
voltage rating.

Alternatively, I can stack two 10uFs on top of each other to make 20uF
25v, but that's ugly.  1210's won't fit.

Note that adding a 47uF 35v electrolytic across the 4.7u reduces the
noise greatly.  In fact, a 4.7u electrolytic helps much more than a
second 4.7u ceramic.

If I replace just the +12v cap with a 22u elec, the +7 cap still
buzzes.  I suspect the elec alone can't react fast enough to get rid
of the ripple.


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