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Re: gEDA-user: Soldering iron tip turns black
Yes I do have an adjustable iron. The solder does contain lead so what
kind of temperature are we talking? It doesn't give a percentage of
lead or melting temp on the label.
On Fri, Feb 4, 2011 at 5:10 PM, Phil Taylor <[1]phil@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
On 2/4/2011 1:42 PM, Rob Butts wrote:
high? How can I get it to that shiny silver solder sticking to
it
condition?
The oxidation on your tip can be polished off with fine sandpaper
(400 and higher). It was expected with older irons that the tip
would be filed back as it corrodes. This is generally a bad idea
today, because your tip metal contaminates the solder alloy, leaving
solder composition and properties you can't be sure are stable.
A new tip is a joy to use and should hold up well to the fluxes and
alloys used today. In a jam, polish the tip you have under running
water (so you're not breathing lead dust) and be sure to flux and
tin this tip as soon as you get it hot the first time.
This routine also works when you get the tip otherwise contaminated
(burned plastic, etc.).
The common assumption that you need higher temps with lead-free
solder may be wrong. These solders don't flow as well, but they
also contaminate easily. Hotter temperatures make this second
factor a serious concern. If you're doing lead free, you have to
have excellent flux or your iron will always be a mess, and you
joints unpredictable.
Phil Taylor
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References
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