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Re: gEDA-user: Silver Epoxy: was Parts Manager Working Document
On Monday 18 January 2010 19:30:55 Gabriel Paubert wrote:
> On Mon, Jan 18, 2010 at 06:26:41PM -0500, Mark Stanley wrote:
> > What kind of problems are you having?
>
> a) That I am a beginner with this technique.
>
> b) That I don't (yet) have the right tools to handle the dies, that
> are small (square 15mil/side). They are ordered and should be
> here early next month. I end up with either not enough epoxy
> or too much with the die drowned in epoxy.
I use a ball pick for applying the epoxy. The pick is normally used for
cleaning the ball wedge on the bonding machine and appears to be almost
molecular sharp. I mount it in the handle of one of those small screw drivers
used for repairing glasses. I can apply a very precise amount of epoxy. Oh
yeah, and a microscope *really* helps when applying the epoxy. ;)
> c) That I still have to order the proper epoxy (the one I bought from
> Farnell has a pot life of 10 minutes, which is annoyingly short).
The stuff I use can sit on my workbench at least half a day before it starts
clumping.
> d) That the components are germanium based, therefore very sensitive to
> temperature and I cannot use epoxies with cure temperatures above 125ÂC.
What I use can cure at temperatures as low as 50ÂC but will cure in 10 minutes
at 100ÂC.
> e) That the distributors in Spain take outrageous margins ($200 becomes
> â400), so I'm trying to find a cheap way to get the epoxy.
That's pretty rough. Are you able to order from over seas companies?
> This may indicate that the gluing was not perfect (to put it mildly). The
> die is small so the force to remove it is rather small too.
I've had to use enough force during removal that I've dented the metal
substrate.
> Besides that heating above Tg of the epoxy helps:
True. Except that the brand I use releases at temperatures too high for the
other dies on my modules so I generally remove the bad die by hand.
> What epoxy did you use (manufacturer and reference)?
I'll get you the information tomorrow when I get back to work. For long term
storage we keep it packed with dry ice (CO2) in the freezer and store the in-
service tube in the refrigerator. We've had in-service tubes last up to six
months.
> I've spent quite some time trying to find the best epoxy for my application
> over the last two weeks but am still undecided. Actually I was considering
> either Epotek H20E which seems to be an industry workhorse, or
> Alfaadhesives' E10-110 because of the convenience of the pouches (combined
> with high Tg and low cure temperature although the cure schedule is
> strange).
I think the stuff I use might be a bit expensive. However, I only squeeze out a
4mm drop and can keep it on my workbench for several hours while I am building
modules. With that one drop I can build 3 or 4 modules, each one having a VVA,
2 amplifier dies, a diode, 2 hand wound inductors, and around 10 or 12 resistors
and capacitors. It cures at temperatures well below the limits of the dies and
the only trade-off is that lower temperatures take a lot longer to cure.
Mark Stanley
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