Re: gEDA-user: [OT] Fluorescent tube help

[Mike Bushroe <mbushroe@xxxxxxxxx>]

   I do not know much about fluorescent tube ballasts, but I can give some
   general guesses.
   1) Wattage is going to relate to total amount of heat dissipation that
   the ballast can handle.
   2) Tube length (each in parallel or both in series) relates to the
   voltage needed to first strike and arc, and then maintain the arc that
   gets converted into light.
   3) Tube diameter relates to steady state current needed to change the
   full width of the tubes. This would be summed (by area, nit diameter)
   for tubes in parallel.
   Looking on McMasters-Car, you can pull the same trick of double the
   input voltage, double the output voltage, two tubes in series on a
   ballast only rated for one:
   [1]http://www.mcmaster.com/?orderview=new#fluorescent-ballasts/=8dz6aa
   NOTE: this is only rates for 120V mains voltage. All the listings at
   MaMasters for 208 or 240 are for compact fluorescent folded tubes.
   It seems that the F8T5 tube is only directly supported on 120V
   ballasts. You might do better to buy a cheap 2 tube, 120V mains F8T5
   ballast and a 240 to 120 transformer. Or just buy a brand new two tube
   lamp at the store and swap for the high UV bulbs.
   Mike

References

   1. http://www.mcmaster.com/?orderview=new#fluorescent-ballasts/=8dz6aa


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