Re: gEDA-user: Copper for PCBs

[Rob Butts <r.butts2@xxxxxxxxx>]

   Thanks
   What weight would you suggest where some traces are going to be
   carrying up to 6 amps?

   On Tue, Mar 10, 2009 at 6:03 PM, DJ Delorie <[1]dj@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

   > I'm looking at getting copper for homemade 2 sided boards.  Can
   > someone tell me what positive coated sensitized copper clad is and
   > how it differs from the uncoated?  Which is better (easier) for
   > home-made?  Last question, it's been a while since I've really done
   > pcbs, does the weight (1/2, 1, 2 or 4 oz) make a huge difference?
   > Is that mainly about load?

     Positive coated has a UV-sensitive plastic film layer already
     applied,
     which is "postive" meaning "UV causes it to go away" so the print
     you
     use has ink where you want copper to remain.
     If you're not using a UV exposure setup, don't buy postive coated
     boards.
     With uncoated boards, you can use toner transfer, sharpies,
     press-on
     stickers, or laminated UV film (negative, like I use - ink where
     you
     want copper to etch away).  What you use and how you do it depends
     on
     what kind of setup you have at home and what investment you've made
     in
     the process.
     I use 1/2oz mostly, because it etches faster and is less expensive.
     Fabbed boards are normally 1oz (they start with 1/2 then plate on
     another 1/2 when they do the vias).  2oz and higher are available
     for
     higher current capability.
     Thinner copper is also better for thinner traces.
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References

   1. mailto:dj@xxxxxxxxxxx
   2. mailto:geda-user@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
   3. http://www.seul.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/geda-user


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