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Re: gEDA-user: Soldering iron tip turns black
On Feb 5, 2011, at 6:47 AM, Peter Clifton <pcjc2@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> On Sat, 2011-02-05 at 15:07 +0100, Kai-Martin Knaak wrote:
>
>>> (I personally try to use Leaded solder as much as I can).
>>
>> Did you ever try a quality no-lead solder like Balver SN100C, or Felder
>> SN100+ ? Unlike the cheaper SAC alloys, these solders feel comparable to
>> leaded solder.
>
> Yes, good Lead free solder is not so bad. Most of the time though, when
> I'm soldering - I'm repairing existing equipment made with a leaded
> process, so I tend to keep leaded solder. Since I'm not doing production
> work, I can also get away with leaded solder for new work as well.
>
> I understand it is important to keep leaded and lead-free process stuff
> separate to avoid contamination - I'm not sure if that is a legislatory
> or process requirement though.
Solders are alloys, if you change their ratios you change their properties, like melting point and strength.
>
>> I had good experience with steel wool. If the tip repels the solder, give
>> it a decent rub. Our new soldering stations by OKi come with a bunch of
>> brass wool. Due to their heater concept, the tip temperature does not
>> overshoot. In addition, they detect when the tip is in the cradle and
>> reduce the temperature.
>
> I use Metcal (Now OKI) irons. I own two SP-200 units, and really swear
> by them - even if you can't get truly tiny tip cartridges in that
> series. They are AMAZING irons for heavy work, as they are really
> powerful. The PSUs and irons sell for about Â70-80 on Ebay second hand.
>
>> My only objection: You use leaded solder. ;-)
>
> I guess we've got to live lead-free in this industry eventually, but I
> will hang on to Leaded whilst I can.
>
> --
> Peter Clifton
>
> Electrical Engineering Division,
> Engineering Department,
> University of Cambridge,
> 9, JJ Thomson Avenue,
> Cambridge
> CB3 0FA
>
> Tel: +44 (0)7729 980173 - (No signal in the lab!)
> Tel: +44 (0)1223 748328 - (Shared lab phone, ask for me)
>
>
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